
It was one of the hottest weeks of the summer and from noon 'til after dark there were people playing in the fountain. It's designed for play, with the water shifting in height and design making it a challenge to run through without getting wet. But everyone wanted to get wet, because of the weather. Moms and Dads sat on the stone benches making up the outer ring where the mist occasionally drifted, while kids of all ages scampered about trying to predict where the next spurt of water would shoot. Toddlers crawled looking totally startled by the water behaving in ways they'd never seen, while older children tried placing empty drink containers over the holes to see how far they'd rise when the water shot up.

This was my second trip in three years and over and over again I'm amazed that this part of the city charms me every time. I spent a day wandering the narrow streets of the North End looking into windows of


I even found the littlest houseboat I'd ever seen—obviously custom made for someone's dog.

Parts of this part of town haven't changed in a hundred years or more, but missing now is the old central artery which bisected the waterfront from the rest of walkable Boston downtown for so many years. Gone is the noise and exhaust of so many vehicles. It's all been sent underground and now a visitor can happily walk from the water all the way to the Statehouse, along crooked streets, past historic landmarks and new steel towers, and somehow it all seems to work. I know the Big Dig wasted tons of my tax money along the way, and made the wrong people rich, but I can't help b
