Our first port of call was a late afternoon (far too brief) stop in old San Juan. Terry and I hiked up to El Moro through the narrow, steep, cobblestone streets, during an extremely hot afternoon. We viewed the signs of franchise civilization as an affront, though the residents proudly brag about their "Starbucks" and "Wendy's" as if they convey some kind of impressive status. 
We were far more impressed by the varied colors of stucco walls and the amazing mosaic tiled into stair risers hiding behind intricate wrought iron gates. Everything seemed tilted, so we gave up trying to take pictures that would look straight.
Turning a corner, we came upon a fountain jammed by kids, similar to the one I saw on the Rose Kennedy Greenway in Boston last summer. Kids and pulsating water--can there be a more joyful sight?
One lone policeman stood off to the side smiling as he agreed to have his picture taken by a young woman (his girlfriend?). I saw one father grab up his son, about 10 years old and run splashing with him into the water...it was a perfect Sunday outing for local families.
Just beyond the fountain we came to the huge und
ulating grassy field that leads to the fort. My immediate reaction to the sight was that every family in San Juan who wasn't playing in the fountain was flying a kite in the skies over El Moro.
The winds were brisk and there were more kites than could be counted, flown aloft by people of all ages--from children thrilled with their independence to young couples, dancing their individual kites flirtatiously with each other, 100 plus feet overhead. Triangles of every color and many sizes with long trailing tails bobbed and jigged on high. Families sat together enjoying the breeze and the view and whatever picnic they'd brought along. I briefly pondered the inability to actually do justice to the scene with my camera and Terry commented that if it was back in the states, there'd be lots of complicated styles of kites and you'd be able to tell who had more money by the elaborateness of their kite. Here they were all pretty simple and I couldn't tell the professionals from the laborers. Apparently this spot is a favorite for a day like this and we just happened to catch it alive with families.
Our last stop was for something to eat. We decided to try a small eatery based on their A-frame sidewalk sign, and the nice young man hawking for them. When we agreed to go in, he carefully led us through the dress shop and the men's shirts behind, to a four table restaurant in the rear, where he also seated us and took our order. The kitchen was up a few stairs to the side and I think his sister was the one waitress who brought our food. I got a chance to try Mofongo, which Terry's graduate student Christian had recommended as a local speciality. It was really interesting and quite good. Mofongo is mashed plaintains cooked with bacon bits and formed into a mound on a plate. You dip forkfulls into a bit of olive oil as you eat. It's probably not the heathiest thing, but very tasty. I also had a chicken Quesadilla and got so much food I couldn't finish.
Our leisurely walk back to the cruise ship was late enough on Sunday evening that most shops had closed, so we weren't tempted to buy anthing...only street vendors were available. I just wished we'd had longer to explore. Maybe someday I'll go back and I'll have a chance to get out of the city and visit the rain forest. Perhaps.
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